Spread, semi-spread, button-down, cutaway, stand-up collar. A short guide to matching collar geometry to face shape and occasion.
The collar frames the face. It is the smallest and most consequential decision on the shirt, and getting it wrong is more noticeable than getting the fabric wrong.
The main shapes
- Straight spread — the classic. Flatters most faces, safe with any suit.
- Semi-spread — slightly narrower points, a little softer, pairs well with knitwear.
- Cutaway — short, tight points. Suits narrow faces and heavy builds.
- Button-down — collar points fastened to the shirt. Never formal, always approachable.
- Club — rounded, no points. Traditional, and excellent under a waistcoat.
Matching shape to face
A round face is balanced by points that add length, so a wider spread works well. A long face benefits from shorter, closer points. For a narrow face, keep the collar width in proportion to the collarbone and avoid anything with a strong flare.
When in doubt, choose the standard spread. It has survived a century of changing collars because almost nothing beats it.
Fabric matters as much as shape
A collar needs to hold its roll without interfacing so stiff that it cracks. We use a lightweight fusible that keeps the point crisp and then steam it into place during the finishing stage.