Ten measurements, one tape, and about fifteen quiet minutes. Everything our cutters need to build a garment that fits the way you actually move.
A garment only looks expensive when it fits. The difference between a suit that was altered and a suit that was made for you lives almost entirely in the measurements taken before the first cut. Get these ten right and everything after that becomes straightforward.
What you will need
- A soft measuring tape that has not stretched with age.
- A well-fitted shirt and a pair of trousers you already like.
- A mirror, and ideally a second person to read the tape.
- Fifteen minutes without interruptions.
The ten measurements
- Chest — around the fullest part, tape level and relaxed.
- Waist — at the natural crease, not at the trouser line.
- Seat — around the fullest point of the seat.
- Shoulder — shoulder point to shoulder point across the back.
- Sleeve — shoulder point to where you want the cuff to sit.
- Jacket length — from the base of the collar to the desired hem.
- Neck — around the base of the neck, one finger of ease.
- Trouser waist — where the waistband will actually sit.
- Trouser rise — from the crotch seam to the waistband.
- Inseam — from the crotch seam to the trouser hem.
Measure the body you have, not the body you were planning to have in three years.
Two rules worth memorising
First, keep the tape snug but never tight. You should be able to slide a single finger underneath it. Second, breathe normally. Many first-time measurements are ruined by a held breath, and the difference between the two readings is often two centimetres of unnecessary tightness.
Once the numbers are in, bring them to a fitting and try on a basted jacket. That intermediate stage exists so that corrections are made on cheap cloth instead of the finished garment.